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Nabusimake: le carrefour des étoiles


Un matin comme un autre à Valledupar –une bourgade colombienne sympathique– nous avons embarqué dans un 4*4, un vieux camion, pick-up qui roule tout au plus à 20 km/h. La route débute, comme n’importe laquelle, sans charme réel. Cependant au fur et à mesure que la route devient impraticable, que les trous sont plus fréquents que les parties plates et qu’ils deviennent toujours plus grands, aussi grands que le véhicule lui-même, la route, elle, devient envoutante.

 

 


Le chemin n’arrête pas de monter, monter, il grimpe vers les sommets de la Sierra Nevada.  Les points de vue n’en finissent pas de défiler à droite, à gauche, de tous les côtés.  Les trois citadins que nous sommes avons du mal à gérer, entre s’accrocher aux barres du pickup et ne pas se taper la tête partout et regarder les cimes et le lever du soleil. Pendant ce temps à côté, les locaux dorment, sans broncher comme si les trous, je veux dire les cratères, ne les affectaient pas.

 

 

On arrive finalement à Nabusimake. Un village colombien, pas comme les autre.
La promenade dans le village et dans les alentours nous permet de découvrir les l’exubérance de la végétation. La proximité de la mer et l’altitude donne lieu à un étrange mélange de soleil brûlant et d’eau glaciale. La baignade dans la rivière est un défi qui fait monter notre pouls et nous assomme littéralement. La sieste devient obligatoire. Finalement, comme toujours par ici, on n’est jamais au bout de nos surprises.

 

 

Mais le vrai spectacle commence le soir, la nuit tombée et la fraicheur arrivée.
Le ciel sans lune est d’une noirceur à faire peur aux fantômes, et l’altitude peut-être, ou plus sûrement la magie colombienne, réduit la taille du ciel, concentrant la voie lactée sur un espace ridicule. Les étoiles se bousculent, se rapprochent et s’éloignent sans cesse, s’allument et s’éteignent à tout va. On ne sait plus où regarder,  les ciels de Patagonie ou des altiplanos péruviens et boliviens sont bien loin dans ma mémoire… On restera des heures durant sous ce spectacle, seul notre mal de nuque nous enverra au lit, frigorifié, mais qu’importe, on a découvert où les étoiles passent du nord au sud !

 

 

 

Mots clés : Colombie, voyage, sierra nevada
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Vous écrivez et c'est un plaisir. Vous donnez envie de voyage et envie de Colombie. Ainsi, il est possible de s'aventurer là-bas hors des sentiers battus. Ce que vous dites de ses ciels est d'autant plus intéressant qu'on ne le lit nulle part. On devine, à votre récit, la qualité des paysages que peut receler ce pays, on devine qu'un voyageur a quelque chose à y faire. Il faut dire que vous avez commencé par le ciel! Je dois partir en février pour quelques mois en Colombie. Vous me rassurez. Merci.

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Merci pour votre commentaire, et ravi de savoir que ça vous plait. Oui il est possible de se promener hors des sentiers battus, il suffit de renseigner sur les conditions de sécurité et certaines zones restent déconseillées, mais il existe un nombre incroyable d'endroits à découvrir en Colombie - bon voyage et profitez bien!

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