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Le passage du Quindío, une allégorie colombienne

Passage de Sargento, Orbigny, Paris, c. 1840. Archivo Bolivar Old Prints (www.bolivaroldrprints.com).

Le passage du Quindío et le thème des « cargueros » (porteurs d'homme) ont fasciné tout au long du XIXème siècle les voyageurs européens. Tout commence avec Alexandre de Humboldt, le grand explorateur et scientifique allemand, qui voyage dans le Nord de l'Amérique du Sud entre 1799 et 1803. En 1801, après un bref séjour à Bogotá, il repart en direction de Popayán puis de l’Équateur. Entre Ibagué et Armenia, Humboldt traverse le passage du Quindío, qu'il décrit ainsi : « une forêt épaisse entièrement inhabitée que, dans la plus belle saison, on ne traverse qu'en dix  ou douze jours (…). Peu de personnes aisées ayant, dans ces climats, l'habitude de marcher à pied et dans des chemins aussi difficiles (…), on se fait porter par des hommes qui ont une chaise liée sur le dos ; car dans l'état actuel du passage du Quindiu, il seroit impossible d'aller en mules. On entend dire dans ce pays aller à dos d'homme (andar en carguero), comme on dit aller à cheval. Aucune idée humiliante n'est attachée au métier de carguero. Les hommes qui s'y livrent ne sont pas des Indiens, mais des métis, quelque fois blancs (…). Les cargueros portent communément six à sept arrobas (75 à 88 kg), parfois huit. »

Carguero de la Montaña de Sanson, Ramon Torres Mendez, Paris (Edition Delarue), 1878. Archivo Bolivar Old Prints (www.bolivaroldprints.com).

Par la suite, de nombreux voyageurs ont décrit ces cargueros rencontrés dans divers partie du pays: le suédois Gosselman dans les années 1825-26, les français de Lattre (1846) et Saffray (1869), etc. Le peintre de genre colombien Ramón Torres Méndez a également réalisé dans les années 1850 un magnifique dessin du Carguero de Sanson (Antioquia), qui sera reproduit à Paris en 1878. Les voyageurs décrivent la dignité de porteurs, leur force impressionnante et la dangerosité des chemins empruntés. Encore aujourd’hui, des intellectuels comme Alejandro Gaviria font des scènes de cargueros des allégories modernes de la Colombie : un pays inégalitaire, des classes populaires dignes et de voies de communications insuffisantes.

Crédits Images: www.bolivaroldprints.com

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Le Lay Jean Yves Mardi, 20 Novembre 2012

Bonjour
Je viens de lire que vous habitez en Colombie
Nous sommes des voyageurs , nous voyageons 3mois en As rentrons en France entre 3et 6 mois et repartons
Savez vous combien de temps il est possible de laisser un Camping Car en Storage en Colombie 3mois, 6mois ou plus
Auriez vous une idée de la legislation ?
Si vous avez une reponse
Merci
Le Lay Jean Yves
S

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TSA Mardi, 20 Novembre 2012

A priori, cela ne devrait pas être trop difficile. Je vous conseille de chercher à Bogota, le reste du pays étant chaud et humide et vous allez retrouver Camping Car dans un sale état. Après, cela dépend un peu de la taille de votre Camping Car. S'il est petit, le mieux serait de louer un parking privé, c'est sûr et pas cher. Sinon, il faudrait voire un parking de longue durée. Le plus cher serait de l'ordre de 150 EUR/mois.
Cordialement,
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ps: vous pouvez me contacter à l'adresse suivante : desaintalbin@gmail.com.

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