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Vert d'Amazonie

L’arrivée par les air à Leticia annonce la couleur : le vert. Il est partout, à perte de vue. Le gris habituel de l’immensité de la ville a disparu. La jungle urbaine s’est transformée en jungle tout court. Seul les fleuves, marron pour la plupart, varient ce paysage presque uniforme vu du ciel.


L’atterrissage ressemble à l’entrée dans un monde parallèle, le monde vert, où l’humidité va réguler la quotidienneté. L’immensité du vert donne l’impression d’impénétrabilité. On s’attend presque à croiser une amazone à un coin de fleuve. Ces femmes guerrières qui résidaient sur les rives de la mer Noire et qui mutilaient les hommes pour augmenter leurs capacités sexuelles, selon la légende de la mythologie grecque, ont donné leur nom au fleuve qui traverse cette forêt.

Leticia est un point de départ pour la suite : se promener vers les autres villages et aux alentours, ou simplement pour partir en excursion, aller voir les dauphins roses ou gris.

Les allées et venues se font en bateau, l’Amazone est l’autoroute et tous ses affluents les voie de contournement. La vitesse est régulée par la taille de la rivière. Les locaux pêchent toutes sortes de poissons ; ils les cuisinent magnifiquement. L’abondance rend l’expérience de la pêche divertissante. Pas besoin de matériel sophistiqué, un bout de bois, du fil et un hameçon,  un petit ver et le tour est joué, tout au moins jusqu’au moment où un piranha décide de mettre fin à votre ligne. Difficile de lui en vouloir, et assez peu recommandé de le poursuivre, il faut donc continuer sa route. Le soir venu un autre type de pêche est possible ; avec une bonne lampe de poche les guides locaux se chargent d’attraper les jeunes crocodiles. A la nuit tombante, l’éclairage permet de repérer leurs yeux ; puis, grâce à une petite manœuvre en douceur de s’approcher suffisamment pour saisir la bête. Un certain savoir faire est nécessaire, le but n’est pas d’y laisser des morceaux, mais l’arrivée de ses vigousses bébêtes anime tout le bateau !

Leticia est aussi une porte vers le Brésil et l’autre rive de l’océan. Une ou deux fois par semaine un bateau suit le lit de l’Amazone jusqu'à Manaus ou Belem. Après une immersion dans la forêt, sa traversée au rythme des levers et couchers de soleil verdoyant, ajoute une touche aventurière à la découverte de l’Amazonie.

Mots clés : Amazonie, Colombie
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