The Quindio is Colombia's smallest “departamento” or province, but it is without a doubt one which is packed with many attractions. Every village in Quindio is worthy of a day trip. Recently I visited Salento, with side trips to nearby Cocora valley and finishing up in Filandia.

I was staying with a couple of Colombians and a friend of mine came to visit us from Scotland. Keen to know everything about Colombian culture, she sat listening intently as our hosts unloaded hours of information about the country’s history of the country, and how things are now. Having explored what I thought was every corner possible, my friend suddenly turned meek. Sheepishly, she asked, "What about Starbucks? Are there any Starbucks here?" Laughter rung through the apartment.

Colombia is known world-wide for its great coffee. But it can sometimes be hard to find a good cup of coffee here, because the best coffee is exported, while inexpensive coffee is actually imported for domestic consumption.

The insistant humming birds stay just out of reach, their hyperactivity seems at odds with the tranquil environs, but, this is not a surprise, we are in the Eje Cafetero and there is a seemingly effortless efficiency about life here.

Coffee in place, good Colombian coffee, tipo exportacion, on my desk, I settle down to write a journal entry. Hopefully there’ll be no interruptions here in Mompós. And why should there be in this sleepy town that has captivated my imagination since 2007. Everything about Mompós is literary and almost as beckoning me to put pen to paper.