On the 30th anniversary of Gabriel García Marquéz's Nobel Prize for literature, it seems worthwhile to look at a little-know chapter in his life: his time in Bogotá's La Candelaria neighborhood.

The Quindio is Colombia's smallest “departamento” or province, but it is without a doubt one which is packed with many attractions. Every village in Quindio is worthy of a day trip. Recently I visited Salento, with side trips to nearby Cocora valley and finishing up in Filandia.

During my seven years in Bogotá, one point of reference for me has been the the city's official archive: El Archivo de Bogotá. The word archive conjures up images of grey people shuffling down rows of dusty shelfs weighed down with forgotten documents. And, for all I know, that may be accurate. But I've been interested in the Archive's often insightful exhibitions about odd and interesting bits of Colombian history and culture: writers, photographers and long-play record artists.

While most of Bogotá's art galleries are located in the Zona Rosa and Macarena neighborhoods, the last few years more galleries have opened in La Candelaria, the city's historical center.