“May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds.” - Edward Abbey

The insistant humming birds stay just out of reach, their hyperactivity seems at odds with the tranquil environs, but, this is not a surprise, we are in the Eje Cafetero and there is a seemingly effortless efficiency about life here.

“You live in Bogota? How do you manage it? I have heard that in Bogota it gets so cold that sometimes smoke comes out of your mouth.” A conversation with a San Andresano.

Don’t take this the wrong way; I don’t get the Colombian football league. I can’t deal with an Apertura and Clausura and that the combined scores over several seasons are amalgamated to ensure that the big clubs never get relegated just, well, doesn’t seem fair.