Some destinations loom large in the collective imagination. Leading up to my trip to El Parque de Tayrona, everyone who I mentioned it to had the same reaction: It’s gorgeous, it’s amazing, can we come too? I admit to going into it rather blindly, excited by everybody else’s excitement, but other than that pretty clueless as to what exactly made Tayrona so special.

December in Colombia means several things with names that are quite likely as of yet unrecognizable to you: novenas and alumbrados, natillas and buñuelos, though if you spend any time in Colombia during this time of year you will quickly become well acquainted with them.

Though Cali is justifiably famous for its nightlife and salsa clubs, weekend days in Cali are noticeably more tranquil. Come Saturday and Sunday afternoon, it can seem like everybody is either at their mother’s house for lunch or at the mall, shopping (Cali’s second favorite pastime after dancing)— and many of them are.  A very large amount, however, are likely to be found down at the Pance River (El Rio Pance), in the southern part of the city.

If you sit down at any neighborhood joint in Colombia for a bite, you will see small bowls filled with something that looks like a watery relish. This is ají, and it is delicious and not at all relishy. Ají is vinegary and salty and a bit spicy, and it is served with all manners of Colombian food, but especially with empanadas, papas rellenas and other fritanga, as it is a perfect complement to heavier fried foods. Along with hogao, the tomato and onion base used for much of Colombian food, ají is one of the defining sauces in Colombian cuisine.