Though Cali is justifiably famous for its nightlife and salsa clubs, weekend days in Cali are noticeably more tranquil. Come Saturday and Sunday afternoon, it can seem like everybody is either at their mother’s house for lunch or at the mall, shopping (Cali’s second favorite pastime after dancing)— and many of them are.  A very large amount, however, are likely to be found down at the Pance River (El Rio Pance), in the southern part of the city.

The first time I went to Colombia, in 2008, I stayed with my friend Carolina and her family. It was December, and people were already gearing up to celebrate. In daily conversations with friends, the word "rumba" kept coming up over and over again in the context of going out at night, but I could never pin down what it actually meant. “Hay rumba?” “Vamos a rumbear?” Is there a rumba? Are we going to rumba? I tried asking Carolina: -Rumba is like fiesta? -Sort of....-It's going out dancing? -Well, kind of...

La Galeria in Cali is exactly the kind of market I like: friendly produce and herb vendors, unfussy stalls selling fresh juices and rellena (blood sausage made with rice, peas and spices)...