Colombia: The best of the beach

Blessed with two coastlines – the Pacific and Atlantic – Colombia is rich in sensations, from the lush rainforest that rises from the Pacific with its natural sweet water pools, migratory birds and volcanic beaches to the expanse of desert along La Guajira’s northern peninsula. And this is where we begin our quest for the most beautiful beaches in paradise.

Cabo de la Vela can be a challenge to reach if you are unfamiliar with dune driving. Four hours from the capital of La Guajira, Riohacha, Cabo de la Vela is a popular destination for eco tourists and home to a five-kilometer long beach of soft white sand. There are no palms here, or fancy resorts: just a vast blue sky and a lighthouse, where at sunset you can climb the rocky hillside and appreciate the shallow bay and kite surfers on the horizon. Here, lodging is charmingly basic, with the option of sleeping under the stars in a hammock or camping out in the empty expanse of desert. Beds are available in private homes and rustic hotels.

Cabo de la Vela can be a challenge to reach if you are unfamiliar with dune driving.

From Cabo de la Vela travel southwest along the Guajira coastline until arriving at the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, one of the highest coastal mountains ranges in the world and home to the ancient Kogui and Arhuaco peoples. From the stone terraces of the Lost City – Ciudad Perdida – to the pristine beaches of Cañaveral, Arrecifes and Playa Cristal, The Tayrona National Park is an easy day trip from the colonial city of Santa Marta.

A favorite destination for nature lovers and those in search of warm Caribbean waters, Tayrona is one of the most beautiful corners of Colombia where cold mountain streams flowing from the summit meet a turquoise sea. Enjoy snorkeling near the sea-sculptured boulders that form tranquil bays and natural reefs.

Stroll the palm-lined beaches and pre-Columbian footpaths that connect Colombia’s oldest town with the villages of the Sierra. For the budget conscious traveler there are camping areas within the National Park and family run lodging along your own empty beach. For more exclusive accommodation, book yourself into the thatched Ecohabs, built into the jungle’s hillside offering balconies overlooking your very own corner of paradise.

El Rodadero is Santa Marta’s main tourist hub and prides itself for its all-inclusive hotels. A popular year round resort for sun seekers in search of bustling beachside bars, the gym and the perfect tan: it is this country’s little Bali.

From the beachside volleyball of Rodadero, nearby Taganga, is a traditional fishing village that welcomes loungy backpackers with its vegetarian eateries and affordable hostels. Nestled around a half-moon bay, Taganga, is an ideal place to watch the sunset, dine on fried snapper or the continental dishes of the Ballena Azul’s restaurant. From its carefree attitude, you are only four hours away from another jewel in the Colombian travel crown: Cartagena de Indías.

Hemmed-in by ramparts, stone towers and the relentless surf of the sea, Cartagena, is the gateway to the Rosary Islands - a cluster of 43 coral isles which extend into the Caribbean and are a protected as a marine national park. There are few sandy beaches in the Parque Nacional Corrales del Rosario, but it is possible in nearby Baru - the largest island in the area – to hit the waves at Playa Blanca. This white stretch of powdery beach is ideal for sunbathing and although it can get crowded with Cartagena day-trippers, its natural setting, the abundance of sun and cold beers, more than justify the boat ride from the historic city.

Providencia is the best kept secret in the Caribbean

Providencia is the best kept secret in the Caribbean, and although one must fly to San Andrés to reach this small version of Saint Kitts or Saint Lucia, the experience of a week in ‘Old Providence’ lasts a lifetime.

Once the favorite hideout for Captain Morgan, the British pirate who craved Spanish gold, Providencia is inhabited by proud islanders who bask in their European and Creole heritage. The architecture on the island is pure West Indies, with brightly painted wooden cottages serving as accommodation.

Providencia is also a top dive destination in Colombia as it forms part of the Belize Barrier Reef, the longest in the Western Hemisphere. There are many small bays on Providencia, but the largest and probably most beautiful is Manzanillo. A picture-perfect postcard of the Caribbean, from Manzanillo Bay, one can spend the day swimming in SouthWest Bay or Sweet Water Bay – each with its own Caribbean flavor and rum cocktails.

No beach excursion is complete without mentioning the Colombian Pacific. So vast and with little human footprints, the Pacífico belongs to four departments. With its beautiful National Parks, reserves and untouched rainforest, the Pacífico is known for its long tides, empty grey beaches and being one of the world’s wettest places.

Along with the bathing suit, pack the windbreaker. The best time to visit is from July to October when humpback whales migrate to these temperate waters. From the dramatic coastline of limestone cliffs extending from Buenaventura to Bahía Malaga National Park or the dark sand estuaries of the Utría, Colombia’s beaches surprise and challenge the notion of one “having seen it all.” In this country, a beach is simply not a beach.